Better book a table - it's getting busy

Last time I reviewed the Rocket, the Tories had just taken over at Ealing Town Hall. So 18 months on, prompted by a rather smart new coat of paint on the exterior and with rockets occasionally still whizzing across the Acton skies, we thought it would be an appropriate moment to pay another visit.  

My overall verdict last time while acknowledging that the Rocket was undoubtedly a great asset for Churchfield Road was "patchy" and "room for improvement", so this time I was curious to see what we would make of our experience. I do remember one visit being completely ruined by lungfuls of cigarette smoke which did nothing to improve the flavour of the food, so of course now pubs and restaurants are clean air central. All the poor smokers are huddled outside at wooden tables catching pneumonia.  

We hadn't booked, just strolled down on a whim, and as it turned out we were extremely lucky they managed to find us a table. By the time we left, pretty well every table in the dining room was full and there was quite a party atmosphere. I was in a mood to be pampered, having spent most of the day arguing pointlessly with a teenager.  

Service was very quick and no-nonsense without making us feel as though we were being rushed. The menu is sensibly short which makes choosing easy - but not easy enough for my companion who, despite not usually choosing fishy options managed to choose two.  

My starter was a red onion tart with goats cheese sitting on lambs lettuce (£6.20). This was good and comforting. The onions were cooked just right and the goats cheese was melting. My companion enjoyed his pan fried king prawns "only four of them, but they're all very good" in a shrimp sauce with rocket (£7.20). He then progressed to a seafood stew with saffron, tomato and grilled foccaccia (£14.50). This was very good and rich, but the sauce was similar to the starter so not an ideal choice of dishes.  

However, after my trying day I was in no mood to share my completely fabulous duck leg confit - meltingly tender - served with cereriac mash and red cabbage which made me think most disloyal thoughts about my mother's. It was just the right side of sweet, with a hint of possibly balsamic vinegar and a clovey taste. If anyone wants to give me the recipe for Rocket red cabbage I promise to be in a good mood until 2008 at least. My duck main course (£14.50) was so good I began to feel quite mellow, but decided to return at a later date to sample the puddings. Had we decided to stay, we would probably have chosen chocolate fondant with ice cream or treacle tart with Cornish clotted cream.

The dining room still is quite a glamorous place to spend an evening - although we noticed the banquette one of us was sitting on was showing the signs of people enjoying their food and drink. Perhaps a little re-upholstery would be a good idea - in a fabric which doesn't show stains. The accoustics are also still a little problematical. However, these are minor quibbles.  

With two Budvars and a mineral water, plus a large bowl of the Rocket's very good French fries (£2.90) the bill excluding service came to £50.90. This isn't cheap, but I would say the quality of the food warrants the price. If the Rocket can keep up this quality of cooking, it will get very busy indeed, although admittedly it was a Saturday night, so I will book a table next time I visit.

Clare Gittins

November 27, 2007